{"id":9012,"date":"2020-05-04T12:34:55","date_gmt":"2020-05-04T11:34:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.hoteldericci.com\/coronavirus-how-to-keep-our-favourite-kitchens-alive\/"},"modified":"2023-07-28T11:37:25","modified_gmt":"2023-07-28T10:37:25","slug":"coronavirus-how-to-keep-our-favourite-kitchens-alive","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.hoteldericci.com\/de\/coronavirus-how-to-keep-our-favourite-kitchens-alive\/","title":{"rendered":"CORONAVIRUS: HOW TO KEEP OUR FAVOURITE KITCHENS ALIVE"},"content":{"rendered":"<\/p>\n\n<style type=\"text\/css\" data-created_by=\"avia_inline_auto\" id=\"style-css-av-k5znw74o-6f621fdbcdc6ed2d3775af800cbb4a14\">\n.avia-image-container.av-k5znw74o-6f621fdbcdc6ed2d3775af800cbb4a14 img.avia_image{\nbox-shadow:none;\n}\n.avia-image-container.av-k5znw74o-6f621fdbcdc6ed2d3775af800cbb4a14 .av-image-caption-overlay-center{\ncolor:#ffffff;\n}\n<\/style>\n<div  class='avia-image-container av-k5znw74o-6f621fdbcdc6ed2d3775af800cbb4a14 av-styling-no-styling avia-align-center  avia-builder-el-0  el_before_av_heading  avia-builder-el-first '   itemprop=\"image\" itemscope=\"itemscope\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/ImageObject\" ><div class=\"avia-image-container-inner\"><div class=\"avia-image-overlay-wrap\"><img decoding=\"async\" fetchpriority=\"high\" class='wp-image-7837 avia-img-lazy-loading-not-7837 avia_image ' src=\"https:\/\/www.hoteldericci.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/Howspendit-Covid19_2.jpg\" alt='' title='Howtospendit-Covid19'  height=\"1072\" width=\"1864\"  itemprop=\"thumbnailUrl\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.hoteldericci.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/Howspendit-Covid19_2.jpg 1864w, https:\/\/www.hoteldericci.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/Howspendit-Covid19_2-300x173.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.hoteldericci.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/Howspendit-Covid19_2-1030x592.jpg 1030w, https:\/\/www.hoteldericci.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/Howspendit-Covid19_2-768x442.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.hoteldericci.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/Howspendit-Covid19_2-1536x883.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.hoteldericci.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/Howspendit-Covid19_2-1500x863.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/www.hoteldericci.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/Howspendit-Covid19_2-705x405.jpg 705w, https:\/\/www.hoteldericci.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/Howspendit-Covid19_2-600x345.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1864px) 100vw, 1864px\" \/><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n<style type=\"text\/css\" data-created_by=\"avia_inline_auto\" id=\"style-css-av-av_heading-18e1df2d395cf58fb499ef139b405bef\">\n#top .av-special-heading.av-av_heading-18e1df2d395cf58fb499ef139b405bef{\npadding-bottom:10px;\n}\nbody .av-special-heading.av-av_heading-18e1df2d395cf58fb499ef139b405bef .av-special-heading-tag .heading-char{\nfont-size:25px;\n}\n.av-special-heading.av-av_heading-18e1df2d395cf58fb499ef139b405bef .av-subheading{\nfont-size:15px;\n}\n<\/style>\n<div  class='av-special-heading av-av_heading-18e1df2d395cf58fb499ef139b405bef av-special-heading-h1 blockquote modern-quote modern-centered  avia-builder-el-1  el_after_av_image  el_before_av_textblock '><h1 class='av-special-heading-tag '  itemprop=\"headline\"  >CORONAVIRUS: HOW TO KEEP OUR FAVOURITE KITCHENS ALIVE<\/h1><div class=\"special-heading-border\"><div class=\"special-heading-inner-border\"><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<section  class='av_textblock_section av-k5jt0we9-9eb8765f9398bb39a2da1fce1c2cbd28 '   itemscope=\"itemscope\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/BlogPosting\" itemprop=\"blogPost\" ><div class='avia_textblock'  itemprop=\"text\" ><div class=\"inner_section\" style=\"text-align: center;\">\n<div class=\"testo_unica_colonna aos-init aos-animate\" data-aos=\"zoom-out\">\n<div class=\"section\">\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<div class=\"column\">\n<p>The last time I went to a\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/food-drink\/restaurants\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">restaurant<\/a>\u00a0was on 11\u00a0March. It was for lunch at Jacob Kenedy\u2019s\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/bocca-di-lupo\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Bocca di Lupo<\/a>\u00a0in London\u2019s\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/soho\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Soho<\/a>. The place was packed. As it was a special occasion, I and my other half started with a glass of\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/articles\/207519\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">prosecco<\/a>, followed by deliciously salty fried sage leaves filled with anchovy, which we watched being dipped in batter and dropped into hot oil. Next came a light feast of\u00a0sea-bream carpaccio with rosemary oil and orange zest; pan-fried veal kidneys and artichokes; tagliatelle with rag\u00f9 Bolognese; calamaretti with courgettes and bottarga;\u00a0and a side of minerally green monk\u2019s beard with\u00a0oil and lemon. Plus a couple of glasses of\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/food-drink\/wine-champagne\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">wine<\/a>\u00a0to\u00a0wash it all down. Afterwards, we trotted across the road\u00a0to\u00a0the restaurant\u2019s sister venue,\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/gelupo\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Gelupo<\/a>, for\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/ice-cream\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">ice cream<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0sat outside with our double-scoop ricotta and\u00a0sour-cherry gelati, watching people go by.<\/p>\n<p>I look back on that meal now with wistfulness and concern, because who knows whether Bocca di Lupo or indeed any restaurant in\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/london\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">London<\/a>, or beyond, will survive the current shutdown? \u201cIt\u2019s like wartime. Or an episode of\u00a0<em>Black Mirror<\/em>,\u201d says chef Tom Brown of\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/seafood\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">seafood<\/a>\u00a0restaurant Cornerstone in Hackney Wick. Brown tells me of his peers, chefs and restaurant owners, \u201cgrown men and women used to hard graft\u201d gripped with fear about the future.<\/p>\n<p>The overnight closure of bars and restaurants around the world has been brutal. Townsend, the new restaurant at\u00a0the Whitechapel Gallery from Nick Gilkinson (who launched Garden Caf\u00e9) and chef Joe Fox (formerly of Petersham Nurseries), had to close the day before Fay\u00a0Maschler\u2019s positive review in the\u00a0<em>Evening Standard<\/em>. Innumerable projects, pop-ups and openings have been postponed, among them the much-anticipated skyscraper restaurant SAGA from\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/articles\/207892\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Daniel Humm<\/a>\u00a0alumnus James Kent and Jeff Katz of Crown Shy in Manhattan; and two new ventures (a caf\u00e9 and restaurant-bar) in West Hollywood from the group behind the hugely successful\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/los-angeles\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">LA<\/a>\u00a0hotspot EP &#038; LP. \u201cYears of planning, designing and hiring now hang in limbo,\u201d says co-owner Grant Smillie.<\/p>\n<p>For those of us who cherish restaurants and dining out, the question is: how can we help? Many restaurants are offering gift cards and voucher schemes to be redeemed once they reopen. Some are pivoting to takeout and delivery. Others are providing seasonal-produce boxes, which benefit their suppliers, whose survival is also crucial. To that end, initiatives such as Natoora\u2019s home-delivery app in London and\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/new-york\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">New York<\/a>\u00a0(previously only available to restaurants) and the Farms to Feed Us database (<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/www.cathystgermansevents.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">cathystgermansevents.com<\/a>), spearheaded by\u00a0regenerative-farming activist Cathy St Germans, are forging direct links between growers and consumers.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"article-media\">\n<div class=\"article-media__image\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.ft.com\/__origami\/service\/image\/v2\/images\/raw\/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com%2Fhtsi-ez-prod%2Fez%2Fimages%2F9%2F6%2F8%2F3%2F2273869-4-eng-GB%2FFood_Credit_Chiara_Brazzale_Spaghetti.jpg?width=620&#038;dpr=1&#038;format=jpg&#038;source=htsi\" sizes=\"(min-width: 660px) 660px, (min-width: 480px) 480px, 320px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.ft.com\/__origami\/service\/image\/v2\/images\/raw\/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com%2Fhtsi-ez-prod%2Fez%2Fimages%2F9%2F6%2F8%2F3%2F2273869-4-eng-GB%2FFood_Credit_Chiara_Brazzale_Spaghetti.jpg?width=460&#038;format=jpg&#038;source=htsi 320w,https:\/\/www.ft.com\/__origami\/service\/image\/v2\/images\/raw\/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com%2Fhtsi-ez-prod%2Fez%2Fimages%2F9%2F6%2F8%2F3%2F2273869-4-eng-GB%2FFood_Credit_Chiara_Brazzale_Spaghetti.jpg?width=608&#038;format=jpg&#038;dpr=2&#038;source=htsi 480w,https:\/\/www.ft.com\/__origami\/service\/image\/v2\/images\/raw\/https%3A%2F%2Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com%2Fhtsi-ez-prod%2Fez%2Fimages%2F9%2F6%2F8%2F3%2F2273869-4-eng-GB%2FFood_Credit_Chiara_Brazzale_Spaghetti.jpg?width=620&#038;format=jpg&#038;dpr=2&#038;source=htsi 660w\" alt=\"\" \/><\/div><figcaption class=\"caption\">Image: Chiara Brazzale<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>In the UK, you can also pledge to Hospitality Action\u2019s Covid-19 Emergency Appeal (<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/www.hospitalityaction.org.uk\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">hospitalityaction.org.uk<\/a>), instigated by Tom Brown, which aims to keep hospitality employees safe and able to pay bills. It raised \u00a332,000 within 24 hours of its launch. Other restaurants have launched GoFundMe pages to help employees. In the US, these private efforts are joined by organisations such as One Fair Wage (<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/onefairwage.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">onefairwage.com<\/a>), which is offering emergency cash assistance to workers who ordinarily rely on tips, and ROC United\u2019s Disaster Relief Fund (<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/rocunited.org\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">rocunited.org<\/a>), helping the million-plus restaurant workers (many undocumented) who are losing their jobs. In European countries like\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/france\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">France<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/spain\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Spain<\/a>, employees are largely relying on salary-support measures from governments.<\/p>\n<p>A glimmer of hope \u2013 or glimpse of the future \u2013 may come from\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/articles\/206750\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Hong Kong<\/a>, where at the time of writing some restaurants have reopened for dining. Customers must fulfil various protocols, signing declarations of good health confirming they haven\u2019t travelled outside Hong Kong within the past 14 days; having their temperature taken at the door; and using hand sanitiser and stowing their face masks in paper bags at tables. \u201cSo long as there is demand, we are ready to run our restaurants like this for at least the rest of the year,\u201d says Syed Asim Hussain of Black Sheep Restaurants (which includes\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/michelin\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Michelin<\/a>-starred BELON and New Punjab Club) of implementing such measures and operating at half capacity, so that every other table or chair is empty.<\/p>\n<p>Stevie Parle, the owner of Soho and west London pasta restaurants Pastaio, hopes that through this crisis, people begin to understand that hospitality isn\u2019t just about food, it\u2019s a people business \u2013 \u201cthe people who make the food and those who come through the door\u201d. It\u2019s also a major employer and economic contributor. \u201cI don\u2019t think people noticed that before,\u201d he adds. \u201cThey think of hospitality jobs as badly paid, which isn\u2019t the case any more.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>He also hopes the restaurant sector will be more united in the future. \u201cGenerally, in hospitality we don\u2019t organise,\u201d he says. \u201cWe don\u2019t have lobbies or unions. We are a disparate collection of businesses who don\u2019t have much in common. It\u2019s very broad, the difference between McDonald\u2019s and a\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/shoreditch\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Shoreditch<\/a>\u00a0wine bar. We have also never managed to effectively communicate to government what works and doesn\u2019t work for us. Suddenly, we all have the same problem: no one is allowed to come through the door. And we have started to pull together against what is an existential threat.\u201d Already, people across the hospitality industry have started contacting each other to trade experiences and offer support (including legal advice). It has\u00a0crystallised into petitions, such as the one started by chef Alex Claridge of British restaurant The Wilderness that has picked up 300,000 signatures, and an industry-backed effort coordinated by Kate Nicholls of UKHospitality calling for government action and aid.<\/p>\n<p>This is being replicated elsewhere, with action groups such as the 50-odd \u201cband of brothers and sisters\u201d convened by Lorenzo Lisi, proprietor of Hotel De\u2019 Ricci and its sibling\u00a0Ristorante Pierluigi in\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/rome\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Rome<\/a>, to help keep Italian hospitality alive; and Relief Opportunity for All Restaurants (ROAR), backed by Momofuku Group, Jean-Georges Restaurants, Eataly and other major players in Manhattan to help\u00a0New York traders secure rent- and tax-relief and insurance guarantees.<\/p>\n<p>For student chefs graduating this summer, there may be a silver lining. \u201cIf\u00a0we start to see any kind of return to\u00a0people gathering, there will be work,\u201d says Camilla Schneideman, managing director of Leiths School of Food, which will complete this year\u2019s diplomas with online tutorials, if necessary. \u201cThere\u2019s always a need for highly skilled people. Also, this industry has proved endlessly resilient. The whole rise of street food and\u00a0<a title=\"\" href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/supper-clubs\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">supper clubs<\/a>\u00a0came out of the last recession, when there was a shift away from white-tablecloth dining to a more informal style. That did huge amounts for the food industry in this country.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Tom Brown describes the day when, \u201ca dribbling mess\u201d, he prepared to let go of his staff and was met by their response. \u201cChef, we all know you would do anything for us,\u201d one lad told him. \u201cYou\u2019ve normally got us and now we\u2019ve got you.\u201d \u201cI will never forget that,\u201d Brown says. \u201cThat to me signifies hospitality \u2013 that caring for people, that warmth and generosity. And that from a 19-year-old kid who\u2019s got nothing \u2013 and is about to have less.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/howtospendit.ft.com\/food-drink\/208285-coronavirus-how-to-keep-our-favourite-kitchens-alive\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">->Read The Article<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"inner_section\">\n<div class=\"testo_unica_colonna aos-init aos-animate\" data-aos=\"zoom-out\">\n<div class=\"section\">\n<div class=\"layoutArea\">\n<div class=\"column\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"layoutArea\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<footer>\n<div class=\"inner\"><\/div>\n<\/footer>\n<\/div><\/section>\n\n<style type=\"text\/css\" data-created_by=\"avia_inline_auto\" id=\"style-css-av-k5zns16k-08b41cdc10d4ccaae3575714e6d03a4c\">\n#top .hr.hr-invisible.av-k5zns16k-08b41cdc10d4ccaae3575714e6d03a4c{\nheight:50px;\n}\n<\/style>\n<div  class='hr av-k5zns16k-08b41cdc10d4ccaae3575714e6d03a4c hr-invisible  avia-builder-el-3  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